Beautiful Tulum

Along with Chichen Itza, Tulum has been high up on my wish list for some time now! I’m forever seeing stunning photos of this Mayan site on the internet and have longed to visit. Luckily for us, our hotel was only a 45 minute drive to Tulum so we set off early (again) to wonder the site before the sun got too strong and again, to avoid the crowds.

We arrived in Tulum at around 8am, there’s a passenger train that can take you from the carpark to the entrance but unless you have difficulties walking, it’s really not worth wasting your money on this as it’s less than a 10-minute walk to the entrance. Admission is around M$60 (£2.50), and as soon as you’ve paid and entered the site you’re absorbed by lush jungle and the smell of the sea.

Tulum really is an incredibly breath taking site. Although the buildings and structures aren’t as advanced or big as others from around the same period and is actually a relatively small site; the views and location really do beat most other Mayan sites I’ve had the pleasure of visiting. The Mayans that inhabited this site must have been pretty happy each morning when they woke up and saw the beautiful turquoise sea under their temples. Whilst wondering this site, like I do with most sites we visit, I try and imagine what life would have been like back then, and the Mayans here were seriously lucky! Most other Mayan sites were located in dense jungle, thus swarmed by mosquitos, but the fresh sea breeze at Tulum meant wondering the site was a real pleasure.

‘Tulum’ is Mayan for wall, quite a literal name given that 3 out of 4 sides of this city are surrounded by thick walls (the other is the sea). The walls are meters thick and some are up to 5m high and were built to protect the city in what was a time of strife between Mayan communities. Most of the 2000 residents lived outside of the walls, and inside were the sacred temples and the houses of those high up in the community. Built between 1200 AD and 1450 AD, the city was one of the last to be abandoned by the Mayans, roughly 75 years after the Spanish conquest, and many Mayan pilgrims still visited the city over the years and it was even used as a shelter for indigenous refugees throughout the Caste War.

There is a set route to follow inside the walls to ensure you see every structure from the best angle, whilst protecting the land. You can feel the spray of the sea and hear the crashing waves well before you see it. It’s a beautiful site, the varying shades of turquoise against the bright white/grey of the Mayan buildings, set amidst lush jungle and palm trees. Again the shore was lined with bright red seaweed, but this actually gave some beautiful contrast in photos.

We spent a few hours wondering around the site, discovering small buildings and structures as well as some huge lizards and Iguanas. Although there aren’t any huge pyramids here, many of the temples and structures reflect those at Chichen Itza in design. In 1518 when Juan de Grijalva sailed past he noted that he as amazed by the walled city, and that the buildings were painted in glistening red, blue and yellow and had a ceremonial fire atop of the watch tower.

After we’d spent enough time wondering around and enjoying the views we left the site and wondered down the road to the beach. There are two little beaches accessible from inside the ruins but one was closed for turtle nesting and with the tide in, the other wasn’t accessible. Just a short 5-minute stroll down a road lined with men selling fresh coconuts and you come to an opening which takes you straight on to the beach. We stopped and had a lovely refreshing lemonade and looked along the shore back to the ruins.

Gran Cenote Tulum

When we were ready to leave we stopped by the Gran Cenote which was only a 5-minute drive away and with an entry fee of around $100. This cenote was seriously stunning!! All guests were asked to take a shower before entering the cenote, there’s plenty of changing rooms and even a lovely shaded picnic area. Unlike the previous one we visited, this one was mostly in day light, and you can swing amongst fish and fresh water turtles until your heart is content. The water was wonderfully clear and very refreshing on a hot day. You can also swim into caves and through tunnels amongst the bats. But be careful, the fish love to nip at your toes, and the turtles don’t seem to move out of your path when swimming so will bump into you!  It was a wonderful end to a great day, Tulum really is the gem of the Mayan Riviera.

Playful Turtles